Thursday, 02 September 2010

Alternative Christmas dinner

Traditional festive food means turkey, cranberry sauce and pudding drowning in brandy. But if you fancy a change from fighting over the last sad little turkey in the bottom of the supermarket chiller you are in luck.

Xmas dinner photo
Kate Budniak and chef Andrew Hewetson at 4 Corners Diner

Especially as rumours abound that turkey prices could soar to £70 a pop this year.

If you want to serve family and guests with something that earns you praise and kitchen-envy, Carlisle chef Andrew Hewetson, co-owner of 4 Corners diner on Earl’s Lane, has put together an alternative festive menu for Me readers packed with flavours to capture the spirit of the season. Despite its impressive dishes, it’s simple enough to be tackled by most folk with a hob and an oven.

Andrew, 28, who cut his culinary teeth at Bond Street private gentleman’s club, The Oriental Club, then at Michelin-starred Northcote Manor under Great British Menu finalist, Nigel Haworth, is a fan of traditional methods. “The old ingredients come back around again and again as being quirky and modern. But these are methods that have stood the test of time.”

His classical training is reflected in the confit duck and red cabbage for the starter. “Both are strong flavours that stand up well together. The taste is very seasonal.”

A lighter choice of cod for the main course complements the robust duck dish. “It has just four elements to it with very different textures. But it is nice and simple and lifts the menu.”

The choice of crumble for dessert is akin to a seasonal comfort blanket.

“Everyone loves a crumble. It’s also so easy. This version just takes it a little further with a festive flavour.”

Kate Budniak, front of house manager and Andrew’s partner at 4 Corners, has a few tips to help you show off your efforts.

She said: “There’s so many ways of making a table more attractive. Lots of candles are essential. For this menu, you could mix and match your crockery to give a homely feel. Coloured glassware adds to this effect.

“Also, take a Christmas bauble, add a gift tag to it with your guest’s name on it and you have a place card.

“To finish the meal, think about serving up some liqueur coffees. They don’t have to be full sized, just take a shot glass.”

To try out Andrew’s classic-style cooking with a twist, book the 4 Corners Christmas Menu on December 6, 13 or 20 when parties of six or more will receive a free bottle of champagne. The Earl’s Lane diner can be booked for parties up to 40 and Andrew and Kate will provide an à la carte menu to suit. Evening bookings are also taken for parties of 10 or more throughout the year.

4 Corners also provides cafe-style food Monday to Saturday 9am until 5pm.

  • For more information and reservations call 01228 598826.

RECIPES
Confit Duck Leg and Braised Red Cabbage


Ingredients:
4 duck legs (preferably Gressingham)
1 sprig fresh thyme
500g goose fat
1 fresh bouquet garni (bay leaf, parsley stalks, fresh thyme and small celery sticks tied together)

Method:
For the duck
1. Press thyme into duck legs. Sprinkle with sea salt. Leave at room temperature for an hour to draw moisture out.
2. Put duck legs and goose fat in pan and heat gently to the point of boiling. Transfer to shallow casserole dish and add bouquet garni. Cover and slow roast for 1 1/2 hours until meat is tender and the leg bone loosens
easily.
3. Drain legs and dab with a paper towel. Strain fat and keep for sauteeing potatoes etc. Heat a heavy bottomed pan and when hot, cook the legs skin side down for a few minutes to crisp. Serve with dressed lamb’s leaf lettuce.

For the cabbage
1/2 red cabbage, finely shredded
1 onion, finely sliced
1 clove
1 crushed garlic clove
1 star anise
1 cinnamon stick
100g soft brown sugar
400ml red wine
tsp wine vinegar
25g butter
tbsp redcurrant jelly

Method:
1. Sweat onion and garlic off in butter and add cabbage. Cover on a medium heat for 10 mins stirring once.
2. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir. Cook for 40 mins stirring occasionally.

Pan-seared cod with Pomme Puree, Lemon Carrots and Roasted Shallots

Ingredients:
2 large potatoes (such as maris piper)
6 cloves garlic
150ml milk
4 tbsp double cream
75g butter
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tbsp olive oil
4 large tranches cod (thick neat fillets, around 200g each, skin on, salt and freshly ground pepper)
500g Chantenay carrots
20 small shallots

Method:
1. Peel potatoes and evenly dice. Boil in salted water for 12-15mins. Drain and return to pan to dry out then mash.
2. While potatoes are boiling, blanch garlic in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and refresh in cold water. Repeat twice. Peel off skin and mash into puree.
3. Scald milk (don’t boil). Slowly stir into potato puree and season.
Slowly add cream to make a nice smooth puree. Cook out gently for 5 minutes then gradually beat in half the diced butter.
4. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan. Add fish skin side down. Cook for 6-7 mins until firm then flip and cook briefly on the other side.

For the carrots
Ingredients:
125g butter
50g sugar
1/2 lemon cut in 2
1 pt water
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 juniper berries

Method:
1. Place ingredients in pan and bring to boil until carrots are cooked. Remove carrots and cool.
2. Save liquid and bring to boil, removing lemon and reduce until the butter and water emulsify. Place carrots in the resulting fondant and scatter round cod to serve.
For the shallots.
1. Place the shallots in a large piece of tinfoil, together with some sprigs of rosemary and thyme.
Fold into a parcel and bake in the oven for 40mins until soft.

Raisin, Pear and Apple Crumble

Ingredients:

40g porridge oats
2 granny smith apples peeled, cored and diced
2 pears peeled, cored and diced
50g raisins
3tbsp caster sugar
pinch ground cinnamon
150g flour
100g butter
50g demerara sugar
double cream/custard/ice cream to serve

Method:
1. Pre-heat oven to 180c or gas mark 4.
2. Mix the apples, pears, raisins, caster sugar and cinnamon together. Chill until ready to use.
3. Sift flour into a bowl and rub with butter until the mixture is like breadcrumbs. Mix in demerara sugar. Fill an ovenproof dish with the fruit and top with the crumble mix. Bake for 30 mins until the fruit is soft and topping golden.

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