From lobster bait to top dish
Last updated 09:24, Saturday, 13 September 2008
It might look ugly, but it tastes good and it’s cheap! The humble Gurnard has suddenly become popular with home cooks, years after it was first championed by TV chef Rick Stein.
The fish, which used to be only used as lobster bait has slowly gained popularity among top chefs across the country for its sweet taste and its firm white flesh makes it ideal for stews or grilling and barbecuing.
Retail sales have increased from £17,000 a year in 2007 to £181,000 in 2008 – an increase of nearly 1,000 per cent.
It is fast-growing and plentiful, unlike the threatened stocks of perennial favourites such as cod and haddock. As we’re in the middle of seafood fortnight why not try a Gurnard to mark the event?
Jacqueline Dobbs works at The Catch on Maryport harbour which is the shopfront for the town’s fishing co-operative.
Gurnard sells for £5.51 a kilo there – or £2.50 per lb.
Jacqueline said: “We have noticed an increase in sales of the fish. A lot of people ask for it and one lady prefers it to seabass.”
Don’t let the look of the Gurnard put you off.
Although is has a big head and googly eyes, there are not many bones to it if you ask for your fishmonger to fillet it for you.
And ask for the bones back, they make a great stock when simmered for 30 minutes with a large glass of white wine, leek trimmings, a carrot, an onion, some parsley and a couple of bayleaves and just enough water to cover.
As a tribute to Mr Stein, here’s one of his recipes for the fish.
Panfried Gurnard fillets with sage and garlic butter
Ingredients
4 x 350g / 12oz gurnard, filleted
4 teaspoons sunflower oil
75g/3oz unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons small fresh sages leaves
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method:
1 Season the fillets on both sides with salt and pepper and heat oil in a large frying pan.
2 Add the fillets to the pan, skin-side down, and fry over a high heat for 2 minutes until the skin is golden brown.
3 Turn them over and fry for another 1 or 2 minutes or until just cooked through (too long and they will turn dry and chewy).
4 Lift into the centre of 4 warmed serving plates, overlapping the fillets slightly, and keep warm.
5 Pour away any remaining oil from the pan and wipe it out with kitchen paper.
6 Add the butter to the pan and as it starts to melt, add the garlic and whole sage leaves.
7 Return the pan to a medium-high heat and leave the butter to cook for a minute or too until it starts to brown slightly and smell nutty.
8 Quickly add the lemon juice and some seasoning, then quickly spoon it over the fish, trying to divide the bits of garlic and sage leaves equally between each plate.
Serve straight away with salad and boiled potatoes.
